Marc's Chophouse is our new gold standard for upscale dining in Jupiter. We loved the old Marc's but heard a few years ago that it had changed hands, often a worrisome turn of events. Not in this case. This is as fine a chophouse as you'll find, anywhere.

The menu, as you'd expect, runs to steaks and chops: New York strip steak, double-cut lamb chops, a 28-ounce porterhouse, chicken, vegetable mixed grill, veal scaloppini, rib eye steak, filet mignon. All your favorites, and note the prices. We've been to places where strip steaks have broken the $40 barrier, a la carte no less. At Marc's, all entrees come with potato and vegetable of the day. What we really appreciate about the menu - and Marc's - is the lack of fish entrees listed. Oh, you'll find fish all right, fresh fish, bought daily. Because the chef never knows exactly what species of fish he'll find, he doesn't list any on his menu. A shellfish linguine and shrimp dish are listed, but they're always available. I've often wondered how so many places can list so much "fresh" fish on their menus, every day, all year round, when these fish are simply not available every day, all year round. High marks for Marc's on this score.

Appetizers here are your standard chophouse fare, but brilliantly prepared: clams casino, house salad, Caesar salad, coconut shrimp, fried calamari, seared Ahi tuna, and a fabulous lobster bisque.

Inside, Marc's has a Mediterranean feel, opaque glass lighting fixtures, a huge chandelier, cool plaster walls and warm wood trim. Outside, one of the prettiest patios for dining around - French doors, awning overhead, candles, linens, heavy and comfortable chairs and a waist-high wall that completes the cozy enclosure.

We began with jumbo lump crab cocktail - fresh sweet lump crab, chilled. Note the reasonable price. We had one small complaint: the mustard sauce was very strong and very hot (too much mustard powder, perhaps?). A tiny drop on the tip of a fork tine was plenty for a bite of crab. Might be too zesty for some, and certainly got in the way of that delicious crab.

A bottle of Stag's Leap Merlot served us well throughout the meal. Served cooler than room temperature, it was dry, medium-bodied with a distinct hint of fruit. It went especially well with our clams casino. These were perfect, a touch of pepper, sliver of bacon, tender sweet little clams, a dusting of crumbs. Served hot, but not scalding. Those little clams were just sweet and beautiful.

Three other starters of merit: Lobster bisque, the rich flavor of lobster, lots of bits of fresh white lobster meat. The waiter will offer you a dash of sherry from a small pitcher. It takes this bisque over the top. Marc's makes its bisque fresh, and you can tell. It was not floury, didn't taste overly dairy, not unnaturally thick. Perfect.

The Caesar salad is a generous salad, fresh chopped hearts of romaine, light, zesty dressing, tangy Parmesan, served nice and cold. Anchovies are offered. And the coconut shrimp - big fresh-tasting shrimp, rolled in grated coconut, deep fried. A luxurious treat. Rich with just a touch of sweetness.

Then on to one of those fresh fishes: yellowtail snapper, served with a lime beurre blanc. A fresh, firm fillet, topped with a buttery, citrusy sauce. Another small complaint: The sauce was garnished with julienned raw peels of lemon and lime. They were inedible and had to be picked out. A dash of finely grated zest would have been perfect.

Next up, filet mignon, a perfect cut, flavorful with a "bouncy" texture, medium rare as ordered.

Our lobster tail found a broiled Florida lobster, sweet, tender and perfect. It arrived turned out of the shell; the waiter will remove it from the shell for you, if you wish.

The double-cut lamb chops were a half rack, pink, fresh, rife with lamb flavor. Too often, nowadays, lamb seems to have been de-lambed, taste-wise. Not here. Served with a velvety red wine reduction.

We finished with mixed berries, a generous glass of chilled strawberries, blueberries and raspberries. Unfortunately, some of the raspberries were musty. Blueberries were great. Served with dollop of fresh whipped cream on the side (as requested).

Service was professional. We especially liked how our waiters poured short pours of wine, rather than try to get to finish off the bottle pronto. We also liked the fact that fish specials were explicated without a sales pitch quotient. And, we like the fact that our waiters did not hover but seemed always to show up at the right time, to take orders, clear the table, replenish water. Smooth.

If the place is full when you arrive, enjoy a drink at the bar. Sinatra croons, a baby grand awaits the talented patron, and the owner is likely to escort you to your table, where a wonderful meal awaits.

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